The Olive Oil Mafia: International Olive Oil Fraud

Today, thanks in part to the health claims made on its behalf and due to its good taste, olive oil is in the vast majority of American homes.  In fact, the U.S. is the biggest consumer of olive oil, having imported approximately 322 thousand tons of oil in 2012, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

The graph below utilizes data from the Department of Agriculture and demonstrates a steady growth in olive oil imports starting in the 1980s. 

(Source)

The U.S. Oil Imports by Year graph forecasts continued demand and increased imports for olive oil.

What is Olive Oil?

           So, what exactly is olive oil?  First we must look at the olive.  The olive fruit is very similar to both cherries and plums in that it is a stone fruit.  This means that olive oil is essentially a highly perishable fruit juice.  As such, it is important to purchase olive oils with a recent harvest/production date, as the oil deteriorates rather quickly.  See the following video from National Geographic for more information with respect to the production of olive oil.  This video demonstrates the current manufacturing process, in addition to the traditional method for harvesting olive oil.

            Olive oil is known for its extensive health benefits with respect to supporting immunity, protecting against viruses, and fighting a wide variety of diseases.  This article from the Olive Oil Times discusses how olive oil can contribute to the prevention and treatment of heart disease, diabetes, blood pressure, obesity and certain types of cancer among other ailments.  Rising health consciousness may be directly related to the growing demand for olive oil as a healthy food option.

What is Extra Virgin Olive Oil?

            According to standards established by the international Olive Council, “extra virgin” is the highest grade of olive oil available for sale.  There are strict regulations with respect to the production of olive oil in order to be classified as “extra virgin.”  The oil produced from the process detailed in the above video can only be classified as “extra virgin” if it has “less than 1% free oleic acid, and if it exhibits superior taste, color and aroma."  As the most desirable grade of olive oil, there is great temptation for manufacturers and distributers of olive oil to label their product as “extra virgin,” despite violations of international standards, in order to generate more profits.

Olive Oil and International Fraud

            The immense global market for Italian, extra virgin olive oil has resulted in a highly profitable international fraud with respect to both the production and distribution of olive oil.  According to Maziar Azizi, olive oil fraud has been a concern for thousands of years.  In fact, there are archeological records that imply the existence of an extensive “olive oil surveillance team” in order to ensure the authenticity of olive oil being sold.

Adulterated and even fake olive oil is widespread in the international market.  Many bottles are labeled “Made in Italy” or “Extra Virgin Olive Oil,” however the vast majority of these oils are not what they claim to be.  Alarmingly, in a study by UC Davis graduates, 69% of imported European olive oil sold as extra virgin on the in the state of California did not meet standards for extra virginity.  Some of the most popular brands failed chemical tests for extra virginity, including Bertolli, Newman’s Own Organic, and Pompeian. For more information about the extent of international olive oil fraud, see the full university report here.  

Most commonly, extra virgin oil is mixed with cheaper, refined, or lowergrade olive oils.   Oftentimes, supposedly “extra virgin” olive oils are mixed with different vegetable or nut oils, such as hazelnut, canola or colza oils.  Frequently, subpar olive oils from several different countries (primarily from Tunisia, Morocco, Greece, and Spain) are included in the mix and sold as “authentic Italian” or “extra virgin”.  These various oil blends are then colored, flavored and deodorized, and sold as extra virgin to a producer.

            Though there have been many investigations, arrests, and recalls in relation to olive oil fraud, the most notable scandal occurred in Spain in 1981.  Rapeseed oil adulterated with  aniline, which is a coal tar extract, was found responsible for the deaths of approximately 700 people.  This false olive oil resulted in symptoms of lung and neurological disorders in addition to muscular atrophy, bone deformations, premature aging and paralysis.  This mass poisoning disaster caused tremendous outrage among the Spanish general public, and resulted in the longest trial in Spanish history.

Is your olive oil the real deal?

            Given the extent of fraud in the global market for high quality olive oil, how can you be sure that you are buying the real deal?  Olive Oil expert, Tom Mueller, has put together a buyer’s guide for purchasing quality olive oil in North America on his blog “Truth in Olive Oil.”  Here are some key factors to keep in mind before purchasing a bottle of “extra virgin olive oil”:

• Bottles that are darker in color should be favored as they protect against light, which can speed up the deterioration of the oil.
• Do not be put off by a range of olive oil colors.  According to Mueller, “good oils come in all shades, from vivid green to gold to pale straw.
• Know the harvest date, specific producer, and exact production location for a particular olive oil to ensure quality.  If this information is omitted, it is likely that the oil is not authentic.
• To get the freshest possible olive oil, buy as close to the mill as possible.

For more tips with respect to purchasing, see Tom Mueller’s site http://www.truthinoliveoil.com and check out his book about fraud in the olive oil industry “Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil”